Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Texas to New Mexico Part 2
A beautiful sunrise began the second day on a great note. I was leaving the Caprock and endeavoring to hit the mesas of Gallup and west-central New Mexico. After opening the gates, driving past a couple of jack rabbits and a beautiful doe, it was time to hit FM 207 and stake the road.
I hit US 62/82 and Texas Highway 114, got some gas in Lorenzo, (where I spoke to the attendant talking about various chew companies) which is about 20 miles east of Lubbock, and got onto the 289 Loop looking for 84. After exiting onto 84 towards Littlefield, the radio was turned loud and proud. For a Sunday morning, it was rather interesting that "No Earthly Good" by Billy Joe Shaver and "How Great Thou Art" by Elvis Presley came on back to back. It felt as if I was in store for an interesting day.
About an hour later I passed through Sudan, TX population 958 and then saw one of the biggest horseshoes in my life.
The one time I hit the twilight zone as a traveler is when I cross time zones. That is what happened upon entering Texico. As I saw two other roads intersect with 84, US 60 and 70, I suddenly saw the magical, This was a perfect time for a photo opportunity. I drove to a nearby parking lot and went to the take some pictures. During the process, I met a gentleman and his son who were traveling from Austin to Taos. It was time to hit the road and the unknown.
I have learned to appreciate the roadside and stopping in Clovis was a case-and-point. After reaching a grain elevator, it was time to stop by a motel. One may ask, you are 6 hours from the destination, plus it is 8 am, why stop? Well, the Westward Ho motel has one of the more nostalgic looking signs on the road. In the past, I would just drive by and continue, but now I can appreciate the beauty of the roadside and its characters. After I left Clovis, I began caressing the heart of Llano Estacado or the Staked Plains, one of the most beautiful segments of the roadside. As the wind picked up I began glaring at a lonely the windmill...until I saw an old liquor store sign.
It was time to refocus on the road and visit the grave of one of the most popular figures in Old West lore, Billy the Kid. I turned left off US 84 and took State Highway 272 about three miles southwest. I was not sure how close I was until I saw this.
I got out of the truck and walked to the door and lo and behold, they were open. (The first thing one notices in the museum is the plethora of souvenirs. While it is understandable to have old west figures and New Mexico products, but why Route 66? I love the Mother Road, but if anyone has any clue as to where Fort Sumner/Taliban is(exact locale of the Museum) they would be just as curious as I was. Anyway, I digress.) The first group of people I encountered was a couple from Pearland, Texas which is 6 miles from my apartment. After they left I began a conversation with the museum operator and a buddy of his from Kentucky. Amongst the array of topics discussed were Apaches from White Mountain, Arizona; how people on the East Coast understand little about the drought in the West; how some sheriffs in Kentucky actually part take in the marijuana business and possible solutions of ending the drought in Texas, New Mexico and Arizona.
We spoke for so long, I almost forgot where I was heading, until I saw a couple asking about Billy the Kid. At which point, I went to the back and visited the grave of one of the most interesting figures in American history. After paying my respects, it was time to get on the road and see the "Mother" of all roads, 66.
The drive on 84 from Fort Sumner to Santa Rosa was relaxing and beautiful. Surrounded by windmills and ranches and the voice of Merle Haggard, I was in the mindset of a nomad, looking to find the next place to eat. As I hit the "City of Lakes" my stomach was telling me "Son, it is time to feed me." So, after getting onto 66, a frontage for I-40, I stopped at the Route 66 Diner and fueled my engine with a chicken fried steak and mashed potatoes.
Now, I was 3 hours behind schedule and unfortunately needed to take the interstate so I can reach Gallup, which is about 3 hours from Santa Rosa, before night fall. The drive was beautiful...for an interstate. Skies were overcast southeast of Albuquerque, but remained clear all the way to Grants. I was expecting to see canyons and gorgeous blue skies. However, it appeared as smoggy as a crisp Los Angeles afternoon. For the next hour and change, I wondered about that. As I got off exit 22 in Gallup and reached my destination, the El Rancho Hotel, I asked a gentleman and he informed me of fires in the vacinity. At this point I felt a little apprehensive, yet curious. After I put my bags into the Humphrey Bogart room, -- yes, Mr. Bogart stayed there--- I got back into my truck and headed for El Morro National Park.
The drive down NM 602 and 53 was one of the most nerve-racking experiences of my life. Not fully knowing exactly where the fires were and seeing a sky so dark it felt like a tornado was fixing to hit, my heart rose into my throat. Despite the nervousness I said to myself, "I need to keep on truckin, I want to see this beautiful park." As I got closer, the clouds began to lighten a bit, which coincided with my heart rate returning to normal.
After hiking the Inscription Trail for only an hour, due to the time I had left. I headed back, got some gas then went to the Hotel to eat. Beginning in Post, which saw horrible fires in the Spring and ending in Gallup, which has smoke in the air, it was quite a day.
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